Postings to the Cohousing-l mailing list about Commonhouses

Nov 93 - Aug 95

Compiled by Rob Sandelin.

Contributors include David Hungerford -Muir Commons, Zev Paiss - Nyland Cohousing, David Mandel-Southside Park, Ian Higginbottom- Cascade Cohousing, Ray Gasser-EcoVillage at Ithaca, Rob Sandelin, Martin Tracy-Sharingwood, Debbie Behrings-Highline Crossing Cohousing, Willie Schreurs- Greyrock Commons, Roger Diggle-Porchlight Cohousing, Martha Little-Commons on the Alameda, Judy Baxter-Monterey Cohousing Community, Stuart. Staniford Chen-N St. Cohousing, Joani Blank-Doyle St. Cohousing

Cohousing-L is a mailing list which has more than 60 cohousing groups subscribed and exchanging information daily.

General Design Descriptions and Issues

The Cascade CoHousing common house (which is still under construction and should be useful before midwinter) is built on 3 levels and has rooms with the follow areas (NB 10 square feet is approximately 9 square meters). 

Total area 275

(approx 3025 square feet)

This was as large a building as we could afford to build, but we feel it will be adequate for our needs. We aim to comfortably seat 15 to 20 people in our regular dining area. We will sit more closely or expand the dining area with  extra tables on those occasions when we want to seat everyone.

Three of our four children under 4 YO have no trouble dining in this crowded situation, the 4th  is a very active child who finds the lack of space limiting. In the common house kitchen we are installing a 4 burner commercial gas stove with one large oven. This will probably be complemented by a convection/microwave oven, and a griller. If we have a need for more burners then we will use single bench top burners on flexible hoses that can be put away when not in use.

Ian Higginbottom Cascade Cohousing Tasmania, Australia

 

EcoVillage at Ithaca's common house is planned to have about 3600 sf, including about 900 sf of "private" office space. It will have a ground floor & basement (which opens to grade at the back side), and a small loft or mezzanine to be used as a library. Spaces planned are:

Ray Gasser EcoVillage at Ithaca

 

Sharingwoods Commonhouse is a bit over 2,000 square feet. We are going to do much of the construction work ourselves, which may be a bit of an epic, although we have two contractors in residence to be the straw bosses and expertise. We are about 1/4 done so far. (August 95)

Most the space in the commonhouse is one great room, and there is a small alcove near the kitchen which contains storage, heating and one of two bathrooms.

There are two front entrances to the building, one coming off the main path and another which opens onto the front patio. The front patio is separated from the playground by a garden strip and will be bordered on one side by our kitchen garden. As you walk in the front door (non-patio) the kitchen is in front of you, the kids room to the right and a bathroom to the left.

Our kids space is a half floor (4 feet) below the main floor, near the entrance, so during dinner we will be able to hear the screams but not the giggles (we hope). The bathroom blocks most of the kids room off from the eating space. The kids room has its own door outside into a path to the existing playground. The kitchen is on the same end as the kids room, but above it on the main floor and the scullery is in an adjacent alcove. There is a hole in the wall separating the kids room and kitchen so parents cooking can see the kids. We have built in storage closets for tables and chairs and a small 12X12 basement below the kitchen for deep storage or some other use.

The building has lots of windows, 6 skylights and faces into the existing playground. Our ceiling is made of wooden planks and I suspect we will end up sanding and finishing the plywood subfloor and call it our floor. We are self-funding this building project with loans from community members. We started out with a $2,000 per household assessment to create a pool of money to get started and the total project budget is around $120,000. There are several very large wooden beams across the ceiling and we hope the whole affect is one of lodge-like hominess. On the opposite end of the building from the kitchen is a small woodstove and corner lounge which will be separated from the main eating space by movable partitions which have a bulletin board on one side and bookcase or magazine rack on the other.

There is a long bench along one side of the entry for removing shoes (we would like this to be a no shoe building to help keep it clean) and the other side is a long coat rack and cubbies for internal mail.

Our food service is from a custom made rolling table, allowing access from two lines and we will have rolling carts for dishes as well. The eating space is roughly 25 X 40 feet which we project will hold a maximum of fifteen, six person tables for seating of 90, although we expect regular dinners to be less than that.

Some of this is still on paper and what we actually end up with in the end, since we are building it ourselves, may vary somewhat as we go about construction.

Rob Sandelin Sharingwood

Willie Schreurs writes:

The main question I'd like to consider is: if you had the opportunity to do it over again what would you do differently? What would you leave out, what would you put in that you don't have now? And what would you NOT change because it works well?

Our Common House first floor will include kitchen/dining/pantry, entry/mail, bathroom, sitting room, daycare. The dining room will include a (hopefully) quiet alcove with TV storage (a bit contradictory, but that's where it fit).

Our basement includes laundry, bathroom, mechanical room, and eventually guest, exercise, teen, office areas, as well as probably some sorts of meeting and crafts areas. (~4000sf/floor) There's also a crawl space that a couple people think will make a good brewery. We also plan/dream, down the road to have an outside hottub, as well as greenhouse/workshop/craft shop, community gardens, etc. We haven't moved in yet, and our common house isn't completely finished, but a few problems have already cropped up.

  1. If you're planning on putting refrigerator or freezer in an enclosed pantry, it WILL need an exhaust fan - by the time we realized this (with the advice of N Street) it was too late to add.
  2. Then you also don't want to store cleaning stuff like mops,etc in there, cause you can't get rid of the stink - a separate janitor closet for hazardous chem storage would be safer, to keep from kids.
  3. Translating design details to the plan: If there are specific details, such as non standard backsplashes on kitchen counters, etc, need to make that really clear for the subcontractors. We didn't. Chuck pointed out items that differed from his design while they were here over the holidays.
  4. We may have got too much carpet and not enough vinyl in the daycare -we could have extended the vinyl to the exit door - the carpet there will be very difficult to keep clean with the kids running in and out.
  5. Separate the dining room lights into more circuits for more flexibility, dimmers where ever possible. (if incandescent/halogen) We did a lot of track lighting, and may wish we'd done even more.
  6. Don't forget storage - enough for all the extra tables/chairs, as well as caselots of things that you may buy in bulk, such as TP, lightbulbs, etc. Caselots could go in the basement, but you don't want to lug tables/chairs up and down stairs. We didn't do enuf storage (we have no main level storage except the pantry)
  7. Make sure you know the mailbox dimensions/requirements early -our entry windows were placed too low for optimum placement of the mailboxes and we had to fudge.
  8. We were very ambitious in our plans for sweat equity, expecting to do much of the landscaping as well as the common house interior finish. After realizing how long it was taking just to paint a couple rooms in the common house, we've had to scale down what we can realistically do ourselves, and correspondingly scale up the cost of hiring out much of particularly the heavy duty landscaping. We don't have full costs yet, and we're already over budget, particularly on landscaping.
  9. We've been restricted by our lenders, into some tight landscaping deadlines, and by the city into extensive landscaping, so we're somewhat caught in the middle. We've also had varying degrees of quality on the sweat equity work, which is to be expected, but can be a problem when some peoples expectations on results may be higher than others.
  10. Even if you hope to buy used equipment, or find alternative (less expensive) vendors to do some of the work, budget the full price, because if you can't find the used equipment, or there just aren't any decent low priced vendors/contractors, you're stuck. We've gotten bit on that with kitchen appliances (stove, in particular) and carpet installation. It could be really difficult to find subcontractor prices lower than what your contractor can get. (And between the time you create the budgets and you actually buy the stuff, prices are going to go up).
  11. Shop around on lighting. We found substantially different pricing (10-25% differences) even between two stores owned by the same company, and even with the contractor discount. Of course we also have an incompetent sales person who couldn't keep track of the pricing he quotes us from one community member to the next (or from one day to the next) - no standardization.

Debbie Behrings Highline Crossing Cohousing

 

Diane C. Burgoon of the Lake Claire Cohousing Community in Atlanta, Georgia. asked about a synthesized list of commonhouse issues from Cohousing-L.

Kitchen design and equipment advice:

Rob Sandelin Puget Sound Cohousing Network, Sharingwood

 

COMMENTS FROM EXISTING COMMUNITIES ABOUT THEIR COMMON HOUSE: A SUMMARY

Executive Summary:

I have spoken with, or been contacted by, people from: Muir Commons (MC), Southside Park (SP), Winslow (W), N-Street (NS), Sharingwood (S), Highline Crossing (HC), and Nyland (N).

In my opinion, two major themes have emerged:

NOISE - especially in the dining area

FLEXIBILITY - the ability to modify the function of a room with minimal

reconstruction or expense

Also critical: Placement of the "kid's room" relative to the dining room.

Additional details:

Noise in the dining area appears to be very difficult to control. Deal with as much as possible in design. Some suggestions: acoustic tile, banners from ceiling, quilts on wall, dimmable lighting.

Flexibility is not a term that was used by anyone with whom I spoke, but seems to cover many issues that came up. Two communities (MC, W) have reprogrammed or started to redesign their common house. One group (SP) wanted an expandable common house and regret that it is not, and some others also want more space. Most groups have changed the functions of rooms or moved them around, either because they weren't working right or to deal with changing needs. Nyland didn't finish the basement initially, waiting to see what they wanted to do there first; seemed to work well. The common house is a living building, reflecting the character of the community and changing as the community grows and changes. We *will* change it, so make it easy to do.

Placement of kid's room: It's a balance - "not too close, not too far" -"can hear screams but not giggles." MC moved theirs closer, SP likes their arrangement, across the kitchen from the dining room.

Kitchen:

Dining:

Random Notes:

Willie Schreurs Future Home: Greyrock Commons, Fort Collins, CO

Ray Gasser, EcoVillage at Ithaca asked:

Our energy consultant (and future resident), Greg Thomas, is telling us we may have a problem in the Common House: overheating! We have a lot of solar exposure, the construction is going to be very tight, we'll have a lot of bodies (30 >households), and the stove, refrigerator, and walk-in will be generating BTUs galore.

Has this been a problem with any existing communities? What kinds of ventilation systems do you use? Open Doors? Fans? We'd like to avoid air conditioning if possible, for $$ & energy consumption reasons, but will we need it? Venting of refrigerator heat directly outside?

Ray says nothing about the heating system for the common house... 100% passive solar? Hot water? Forced air? Electric baseboards? Is there any ductwork running around? You say that the construction will be very tight. What, if anything, are you doing about indoor air pollution? The exhalant from 30 families, along with the cooking moisture and smells, HAVE TO be dealt with. You need SOME kind of ventilation just for that, not to mention heat.

Roger Diggle

Office Space

Office space at EcoVillage is being designed and paid for by those who will use it. Basically we're buying a larger house, and that "larger" part just happens to be in the CH & not contiguous with our living space. We didn't feel that the community should subsidize those of us who need office space outside the home. The architect sent each of us a bill for the additional design time, and we'll pay for the additional construction costs. Each month our "maintenance fees" will probably be a little higher, to pay for heating, etc.

We asked all potential residents "Who wants office space & how much". Then we talked to the town, and agreed that no more than 1/4 of the CH square footage would be private office, no office would be larger than 200 sf, and no office would have more than 2 employees from outside the community.

The office space has a direct connection to the inside of the CH. It's on two levels, and the upper level (ground floor) has an outside entrance. This will be near the offices ot those who have clients coming in (like a therapist and a lawyer). I'm getting a downstairs office, since I never bring in clients (I'm a computer consultant and always go to their place, and once I move up to Ithaca from NJ, I'll do most work with fax/modem/phone).

One spot in the office wing is dedicated to the EcoVillage office, about 75 sf. We're actually building about 150 sf of "not-yet-spoken-for" space because we still have 2 or 3 housing slots open, and want to allow for the possibility that needs of potential joiners can be met, or changing needs of the existing 27/28 can be fulfilled.

Total office space: 900 sf out of 3600 in the Common House. Community doesn't provide any desks, chairs, etc., but the office owners will probably be sharing copiers/faxes & the like.

Ray Gasser, EcoVillage at Ithaca

Guest rooms

Our current guest room is about 8x10, with a queen futon and a bedroom-size desk and chair. With the futon folded out, there is no place to sit except in the desk chair. While a suite would be ideal (i.e. a small sleeping area and a separate sitting area), simply having room for a couple of comfortable reading chairs, along with a closet/wardrobe space where clothes could be hung/put away and suitcases could be stored or laid open would be sufficient. The second space could be less specifically designed for guests, more like our current guest room. These sound like design solutions. From the programming perspective, the room should allow guests to have their own space, much like a dedicated guest room in a private home. Specifically, it should allow enough space and privacy to sleep, dress, toilet, bathe, retire for at least short periods, say to read a book or take a nap, and even come back to in the evening for a while before bedtime *so the guests don't HAVE to be in their host's home all the time*. I suppose the bathroom could be one of the regular common house bathrooms, as long as there was a lockable door in the hall separating the bath/guest room from the rest of the common house.

David Hungerford, Muir Commons

So far the rooms haven't been used as much as we expected (only 6 nights last month), but I presume that once

people get used to the option, use will go up. We do charge money for the rooms, to pay for the costs. The costs include utilities; wear and tear on the furnishings, which at some time in the (far, we hope) future will have to be

replaced; paying back the general fund for the original purchase price of the furnishings; ongoing supplies such as soap, toilet paper, cleaning supplies, etc.; and remuneration to a "guestroom manager." This manager takes reservations and oversees clean-up, provision of supplies, damage repair and other such things. The cost of the first night of a stay always includes a $10 "reservation fee" which goes to the manager. In addition, until the debt I mentioned to the general fund is paid off, the rooms cost $20 a night. After the money is paid back, the nightly fee will be $15. There is a lower cost for actual members, many of whom need a room if, for instance, they are not yet residents, are from out of town, and want to attend meetings. Or if they are building their house and have already moved out of their previous residence. Sorry this message is getting long - we have an eleven-page document (yes - this was one instance in which we were stricken with a rare attack of thoroughness) spelling out our whole guestroom system; I would be happy to send it to Judy Baxter or anyone else who would like to see it, as long as they realize that it is just our first stab at things. I've really enjoyed my first week on the list, by the way.

Martha Little, Commons on the Alameda

I'm wondering about people's experience with and plans for common guest rooms. We've heard, I think, that one of the groups with guest rooms in the commons house is finding less usage than expected. We currently have 1 medium size

and one very small guest room in our "Mansion" common space, and they certainly get used, but my sense is (without counting) possibly 4-8 days per quarter. This is, of course, with only 8 households in residence.

Our policy now is that guest space is free to members' friends and family, up to some time limit (I can't remember what that is). We charge people who are needing a place to stay temporarily but not connected to someone. Or, I suppose, Cohousing visitors

Judy Baxter, Monterey Cohousing Community, (MoCoCo)

At Muir Commons we have one small guest room. Outside in the hall hangs a calendar, on which people sign up first-come, first-served. There is no time limit, however, an etiquette has developed around long-term guests (say, more than a week or ten days) which makes it okay for someone to ask if they can have the room for a couple of days, the long-term guests either sleeping on their hosts' sofa or going to a motel. This has worked out fine. We charge nothing (we generally have seen nit-picking about very small costs--furniture wear and tear; utilities--as a greater hassle than benefit. Besides, the common house IS an extension of our own homes, right?), but the hosts are expected to clean the room, wash linens, etc.

We do allow guests who are visiting cohousing rather than any one individual, but I believe we do charge a small fee and limit the time, and of course, residents have first dibs on the room.

In designing it, we made at least three mistakes:

1) it doesn't have a +closet or enough room for sitting space; there's no place to put suitcases etc. except on the floor, and the guest don't really have a place to go to have privacy. Trust me, when your parents visit for 3 weeks, you and they both NEED a place for them to go sometimes.

2) we didn't put a shower in the bathroom next to the guest room. We thought guests would just come to our houses, but that turns into a hassle when all their stuff is at the common house.

3) Although it is remote from activities INSIDE the common house, we inadvertently put it against the main path, across the sidewalk from the children's play structure, so there is traffic just outside the windows and noise in the mornings. We would make it more remote if we could do it over.

We now wish we had another guest room, or another room which could serve as a guest room when there are overlaps.

David Hungerford Muir Commons

I'm a resident of the Commons on the Alameda in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Although we have been in existence (i.e. the first people have lived here) for more than two years, we only started using our three guestrooms in the Common House about two months ago. So everything I'm going to say about our policy may be worthless, since it hasn't been really tested yet. So far the rooms haven't been used as much as we expected (only 6 nights last month), but I presume that once people get used to the option, use will go up. We do charge money for the rooms, to pay for the costs. The costs include utilities; wear and tear on the furnishings, which at some time in the (far, we hope) future will have to be replaced; paying back the general fund for the original purchase price of the furnishings; ongoing supplies such as soap, toilet paper, cleaning supplies, etc.; and remuneration to a "guestroom manager." This manager takes reservations and oversees clean-up, provision of supplies, damage repair and other such things. The cost of the first night of a stay always includes a $10 "reservation fee" which goes to the manager. In addition, until the debt I mentioned to the general fund is paid off, the rooms cost $20 a night. After the money is paid back, the nightly fee will be $15. There is a lower cost for actual members, many of whom need a room if, for instance, they are not yet residents, are from out of town, and want to attend meetings. Or if they are building their house and have already moved out of their previous residence. Sorry this message is getting long - we have an eleven-page document (yes - this was one instance in which we were stricken with a rare attack of thoroughness) spelling out our whole guestroom system; I would be happy to send it to Judy Baxter or anyone else who would like to see it, as long as they realize that it is just our first stab at things. I've really enjoyed my first week on the list, by the way.

Martha Little Alameda on the Commons

Laundry

I have a lot of experience living in apartment and condo complexes with laundry rooms. Whether two washers is enough for 30 households depends on how many people have their own washers and dryers. My guess is that unless the group has explicitly asked people not to have their own machines, some will have them. Carrying laundry back and forth to the common house can be a major hassle during the winter or in bad weather, and some people are not willing to put up with this. My experience in apartment houses where nobody has their own machines and nobody goes to a laundromat is that two washers and two dryers for a 30-unit building is not enough. I would say at least three each. I think this formula would work for cohousing too.

It's a common practice for people in condo and apartment complexes to use two or three machines at the same time. It saves them time, but it's an inconvenience for others who need to use the machines. In some places I have lived, I have had to bring the laundry to the laundry room, leave it there, and come back several times before I could use a machine. I think this problem is due in part to the alienation that exists in most complexes and would be less of an issue in cohousing.

I'm glad to hear that (apparently) the majority of coho communities mentioned in this newsgroup have, or will have, common laundry facilities. It seems that major economies of scale can be realized by doing so, and it also provides an additional opportunity for people to "run into" each other.

Bob Morrison

7 of 26 households have thier own laundry machines (3 common washers/2 common dryers). We also have an outside hanging area with roughly 400 linear feet of laundry line. Davis is very dry and warm most of the year so many people hang their laundry. In Ithaca, two dryers might not be enough. As to types, we originally had 3 used Kenmore/Whirlpool (same guts) washers which broke often enough that we got sick of fixing them--they were like old VWs, easy and inexpensive to repair, but required lots of tender loving care that commonly owned stuff just doesn't get. So we bought a new Maytag and a new Kenmore (as sort of a side by side test). Our laundry repair and fix-it guy warned us afterward that the new Kenmore/Whirlpools have direct drive (as opposed to belt drive) systems, and that when they break, you have to throw them away . . .we'll see--although we did recently replace the 3rd machine with another Maytag. We also looked into commercial machines, and found that the only mechanical difference between commercial and regular machines was the drum (stainless steel); all the guts are otherwise the same. Since the commercials cost almost twice as much, it seemed silly to spend the extra.

Dryers: we use two full-size gas models stacked on a clever, home-built frame--the top one is a Hotpoint (White-Consolidated is the umbrella company, they build under other brand names, too) with the controls moved to the front edge and the lint trap in the doorframe (so they can be reached). These were both purchased used and have never given a day of trouble. Gas dryers are very simple devices.

Energy efficiency notes: gas dryers use much less energy than do electrics, as do gas water heaters. Horizontal axis washers use a whole lot less water (and consequently energy); Whirlpool it shooting to have one on the market within 2 years--right now you have to buy European, and pay a dear price.

David Hungerford, Muir Commons

I imagine when everyone is on site that maybe eight households will have wasing machines in their own houses and maybe no one will have their own dryer. When we designed we thought everone would use the common laundry but it turns out that shear convenience and old habits are hard to beat. We currently have one front loading washer and an electric dryer and we will have space for another machine and dryer if they are needed. The washing machine is a good quality domestic unit and has given no trouble over eighteen months of moderate use.The machines were purchased out of our common house budget.

Ian Higginbottom, Cascade Cohousing

Kitchen Design

Having worked in a number of food establishments, and at New England Culinary Institute (as an instructor...in computer literacy, but it's fun to put on a resume...;), my major input -- which you've probably already heard -- is STAINLESS STEEL EXTERIORS AND SURFACES for everything above kick-plate level. It really helps cleanup, if you can afford it. It won't rot, you never have to paint or resurface it, it's resistant to dings, and easy to disinfect upon occasion...;)

The problem is, if something disasterous happens to it, you have to replace the whole piece, and the pieces are large because you want to avoid seams. The good thing is, this is standard issue foodservice fittings, so you can probably get trivially prefab to fit your space well enough. You can probably find folks who will do this kind of work under restaurant supply in the yellow pages. There is no replacement for a double stainless steel sink for doing dishes.

Best flooring in the universe, albeit expensive, it's designed to last forever with minimal maintenance -- slate pavers, and a floor drain. That's what I want in our kitchen if we ever build! It's beyond belief how easy slate is to maintain, and with minimal chemicals. It can discolor from grease if you don't keep it sealed, but that's aesthetics more than cleanliness. Problem -- it's cold as hell first thing in the morning in the winter. Nice -- it's cool as anything even when you're doing dishes in a hot kitchen on a warm day.

Shava

At Greyrock we've about finished the design. Obviously we haven't used it yet so I can't make any statements about how well it works, but we have given it a lot of thought. In many ways our design is a lot like Nyland's, but the scullery is a little more separated from the kitchen, in a bay. We've gone with an under-counter dishwasher located under the pot-sink (we'll have a three-holer) drainboard. Over-counter models (pass-through design) might be a little easier to use, but they're real space-hogs since you need clear counter-space (probably stainless steel) on both sides at least the size of the dishwasher racks. Corner models are available which would minimise this a little. Overall cost would probably be higher than an under-counter model. Look ugly too (IMHO).

One thing to consider with an under-counter dishwasher is the weight of your dishes. If one uses restaurant-style dishes the load could be a bit of a strain for some people. We're planning on going with Corelle-ware or something similar, much lighter. Also quite durable. I believe Nyland used something similar (Arcapal(?)).

Willie Schreurs Future Home: Greyrock Commons, Fort Collins, CO

Here is a summary of all the info I got about scullery setups. (Dishwashing stations)

The ergonomics of commercial dishwashers. Steps in the flow of the dishes:

1. The dishes are collected and delivered to the scullery site.

2. Plates are cleaned of large food residue.

3. Plates are placed in rack and slid over to the over head sprayer where remaining food is sprayed off.

  • Under the counter model steps:

    4. Wet rack is lifted off counter into dishwasher. Water drips onto floor from the wet rack and onto dish person unless tray is held away from body.

    5. Dishwasher cycles (90 seconds)

    6. Hot, wet rack is removed from dishwasher. Water drips onto floor from the hot, wet rack and onto dish person unless tray is held away from body.

    Over the counter model steps:

    4. Wet rack is slid directly into the dishwasher from the spray area.

    5. Dishwasher cycles (90 seconds)

    6. Hot, wet rack is slid directly out of the dishwasher.

  • 7. Hot wet racks are stored as dishes dry (about 5 minutes) then either unloaded or just left, depending on how many racks you have.

    General Conclusions:

    Over the counter models which have enough counter space for trays are preferable. Ideal set up is loaded dish racks are never picked up, only slid along a stainless steel, one piece counter top.

    Over the counter models are unsightly and slightly louder than under the counter models.

    Champion and Hobart are the two largest selling models of commercial dishwashers in the US.

    A floor drain in the scullery is essential, especially for under the counter models.

    Light weight dishes are essential if you have to lift loaded dish racks.

    Slate or tile flooring is easy to clean without chemicals.

    The whole place needs to be totally watertight as standing water is common and will damage walls.

    Stainless steel countertops come as a unit and are easy to clean and pretty bombproof.

    Used dishwashers may not be a good value unless they been reconditioned with new pumps, gaskets, and water heaters.

    You can get repair manuals for commercial dishwashers by calling the manufacture. If you buy used, call around about your model for availability of parts first and see how long it takes to get parts. Sometimes this can be weeks.

    Typical price for new commercial dishwasher runs around $3,500. Typical used price for reconditioned runs $1,500 to $2,000. Your prices will vary on used gear depending on your local market.

    Rob Sandelin Puget Sound Cohousing Network, Sharingwood

     

    Actually, I have a little experience with dishwashers. When I was young which is, granted, a long time ago, I spent summers migrating from folk dance camp to folk dance camp as everyone's dishwasher. This let me attend camps all summer for free, and I washed a lot of dishes.

    Folk dance meals are typically communal meals for 60 to 300 people. The over the counter model is far superior to the under the counter model.

    Ideally, folks bus their trays, or minions carry them to the dishwasher counter. In front of the "in" side of the dishwasher you place plastic recycling cans. You can pick up a dirty dish with food still on it and knock it sharply against the inside of the plastic can, then immediately put it in the "in" rack of the dishwasher. When the "in" rack is full, you spray it once to knock off any last bits of food, then slide the rack into the washer. Typically, the counter has some stainless steel bars on it that the rack slides along, and a counter underneath the bars so that the water doesn't just spill onto the floor.

    As you insert the "in" rack, out comes the "out" rack. If the dishwasher has done its job, the dishes are hot enough that they will dry in the rack in about five minutes. They can then be put away to free up the rack, or just left that way for the next meal if there are enough free racks.

    I leave out an "in" rack for late diners. This makes it comfortable for people who want to come by later for coffee or dessert after the designated dishwasher has gone. They just leave their dishes in the "in" rack, which becomes the first load of the next day.

    It was fairly effortless to wash all dishes for 300 people for 3 meals a day this way. I could complete the wash from start to finish in about 15 minutes, if the diners were prompt in delivering their dishes.

    One camp had an under the counter model. This was a real pain. Not only was there a lot of bending with a heavy load, but it tended to create a mess near the floor. Granted, over the counter models with room for two "in" racks and two "out" racks are larger and uglier than what you find in a standard kitchen. But I find beauty in functionality, especially if it's me doing the work.

    Martin Tracy Sharingwood

    At Muir Commons in Davis, CA, while average meal attendance is 35-45 out of  about 70 people, we are very grateful we planned our kitchen and dining room  to accomodate the entire community. While the average meal is less, it is  frequently the case (2-3 times per month, or 2-3/20 meals) that almost  everyone eats or someone invites a group of guests. We've had some meals  with as many as 80 in attendance. If we didn't have a large enough facility  to accomodate them all, then we would have to overflow into other rooms or  ration meals (first-come, first-served?). Either option seems unacceptable  to me. When we were planning the Common House, the idea of making the dining  room large enough for only the average came up as a cost-cutting option, but  Chuck (Durrett) said we'd be very sorry. I think he's right on that point.  Remember, the experience of eating meals as a community is deeply affected by  the built environment. If you want limited meals participation, build a  small dining room. If you want people to avoid cooking, then make it  difficult by building a small kitchen. If you want to limit the variety of  meals, then buy "regular" appliances which can't accomodate more elaborate or  more creative meals.

    It seems that the challenge is to make a kitchen that functions as a  commercial kitchen in terms of ease of preparation and cleanup, space,  storage, and hygiene, but which feels like our own home: warm, cozy,  inviting. Our kitchen committee, working with Chuck Durrett as a  consultant, did a great job, considering we didn't have any other model  except the European communities. Ours is large and has all "commercial"  appliances, but still retains a homey, non-commercial feel (with a couple of  exceptions I'll get to). So, to Monika's question:

    Dishwasher: we have a Hobart under counter model with bleach sterilization  and pre-heater (so we don't have to keep the hot water at a critter-killing  140 degrees) and three removable racks. It cost $3000 and is worth every  penny. It will do a load in under 3 minutes, which means clean-up can be  accomplished in a reasonable amount of time. The person who "persons" the  dishwashing station loads and rinses the dishes (we've gotten to where we  leave out bus tubs (those gray 14x24 plastic tubs) with soapy water so people  bus can their own dishes and start them soaking) then loads and swaps racks  every 3 minutes. We end up doing between 10 and 15 loads per meal(including  cooking paraphernalia). I just don't see how one could use a standard  dishwasher for more than 8-10 people.

    Sinks: We have a fairly expensive double-deep well sink with one of those  spray nozzles (an expensive but indispensable device) hanging over. It has  been a problem in that, in an attempt to keep the kitchen as homey as  possible, we used a "drop-in" sink in a standard formica-topped 24" deep  cabinet. After three years the counter and cabinet are trashed--water  damage. The dishwashing area stays wet for long periods of time. We'll be  replacing that with a stainless steel sink setup that can hold the  dishwasher racks while we spray off the dishes. Fortunately, that area is  out of view of the dining room so the visual impact won't be too bad.

    Refrigerators: We have a Victory commercial double door (that is, 5 feet  wide) fridge with the compressor unit on top (about $3000). We went  commercial because standard home refrigerators can't recover (that is, return  to the set temperature) fast enough to keep the food safe, at least when  there is lots of in and out like there is with ours. We have a  registered dietitian in our group whose chosen mission is to make sure we  observe proper food hygiene, and she convinced us this was important. We  also wanted enough space to store leftovers. While our condiment collection  is a bit larger than necessary, it is really nice to be have enough room to  buy food in advance, or in bulk. It's also nice to have a place to put the  salads or other cold dishes until mealtime. We also have developed a very  workable leftover system. People are charged 1/2 price for each meal of  leftovers they eat (self-reported on a tally sheet). Most of us snag a  container for lunch, or even dinner if a meal isn't scheduled. Our meal cost  still averages just over $2/meal, and we very seldom run out of food at meals  anymore; people aren't afraid to make too much because the leftovers get  eaten. And we couldn't do this if we didn't have room in the fridge. The  downside is that the damn thing sounds like a train. We had to move it out  of the kitchen into our (fortunately large enough) bulk storage room. We  have a small "regular" freezer and use it very little for common stuff. Most  of the space in the freezer is taken by vegetables and fruits people put up  (for themselves) in the summer, so no one has their own freezer (not that  anyone has room). The freezer is an example of a shared tool, like the lawn  mower, which has common and private uses.

    Stove: We have a Wolf 6-burner restaurant stove and we hate it. In fact, we  just installed (where the refrigerator used to be) a "regular" KitchenAid 30"  double oven (electric, $1200). The commercial gas oven wouldn't keep a  constant temperature and didn't heat evenly inside--many baked meals were  late or burned until people just gave up and stopped using it. The new ovens  are great. The 30" width (standard width is 24" measured by the opening it  fits into) is wide enough inside to handle 2 9x13 casseroles(or one 13x20)  per shelf--so we can bake 8 casseroles at once (2 shelves per oven), or bake  two different dishes at different temperatures. The Wolf oven is gathering  cobwebs. If we had it to do over again, we would probably skip the commercial range, going instead for a high end countertop unit--KitchenAid, GE, Jenn-Air and some others offer 2-burner systems that you can substitute griddles and grills for, and build a counter with 6 burners (3 instead of the  normal 2 units)--and of course, the double ovens. To belabor my previous point, just having the ovens has changed our diet; we eat more baked  dishes (and breads and rolls and cakes and cookies) because it is easier. I  regard this as good, although I've noticed that many waistlines are  expanding.

    Vent hood: Maybe because we had the Wolf, the city made us put in a huge,  ugly, expensive ($3000) commercial vent hood with fire suppression system  and elaborate grease drain--as if we were going to grill steaks every night.  It is the most obtrusive feature of our kitchen, and makes so much noise it  drowns conversations. If anyone currently planning their kitchen can figure  out a way to sidestep this monster, do it.

    Pots/Pans: Go commercial. Even though $200 sounds like a lot for a 10 qt.  stock pot, even the best "regular" stuff like Magnalite and Farberware just  doesn't stand up. The handles break, or they seem to require much more  attention to keep from burning large volumes of food. Anyone in cohousing  who has eaten the inevitable "singed" spaghetti knows exactly what I mean.  Go for top quality stainless with thick bottoms. Ours still look like new.  Dishes: Commercial dishes don't chip or break as easily, flatware doesn't  bend as easily, and both can be replaced easily (patterns are  long-lived). And honestly, the stuff is not that much more expensive and the  patterns are benign enough that consensus can be reached in just a few  meetings(!)

    David Hungerford Muir Commons

    There are a whole bunch of considerations in creating a well designed,  social kitchen A good commonhouse kitchen lies somewhere between a restraunt kitchen and a family kitchen. Churches, community centers, YMCA camps, State park learning centers  all offer good and bad examples of community kitchens. Visit several  and bring a tape measure to measure counter spaces, etc. Ask people who  use those spaces what they like and dislike about the set up. Typically food is prepared by a team of 3-4 so you need to design a  food prep area which allows for that number of people to work in a good  social environment, where people can see each other and chat as they  work. A well placed center island, with a chopping block surface and a  small sink can make a good food prep area. Don’t place an island where it block traffic flow too much, be sure it doesn’t block access from sink to stove.

    Rob Sandelin Puget Sound Cohousing Network Sharingwood

    Judy Baxter writes:

    Monterey Cohousing is currently working on kitchen and related plans. We have a strong interest from some folks in having a commissary/food store where we can buy stuff in bulk and use it for common meals and also have individuals buy for individual use. We are wondering:

    1-which existing communities have something like that, or which ones have planned one

    We (N st.) have a system very like that described.

    2-if you have one, what kinds of stuff do you buy? any perishables? how is that handled?

    We only do it for a handful of major staples (black beans, brown and white rice, vegetable oil, a few others I forget). No perishables.

    3-roughly how much space (shelf space, etc) do you use for how many households

    We have two 18"x36" shelves in a cupboard devoted to this for our 12 houses.

    4-how is it working? any suggestions?

    It works fairly well. It's quite convenient to be able to run over there when we run out of rice. It gets used more for community meal than for individual use - but it sees a fair amount of both.

    What I'd say is that it's a trade-off between the convenience of the individuals who use it, and the amount of work required of whoever is going to organize it. I'd love it if we carried everything under the sun - I'd never have to go to the Food Coop. But it would be a pain for the person who actually does the work. Obviously the success of such a scheme is entirely dependent on the energy of the person(s) who actually orders the stuff, does the accounting for it etc. The more energetic folks you have to run it, the more extensive it can be, and the nicer it will be for everyone else.

    Stuart. Staniford-Chen N St. Cohousing

     

    Questions I would ask facing a similar decision:

    *Would additional storage space necessarily affect the number a people we can cook for, or is that limited by something else (i.e. seating, pan size, stove/oven configuration, counter space)

    *How far in advance do we purchase in bulk? Would doubling the frequency of bulk buying (i.e. 2x rather than 1x/month) save us from having to remodel if we double the # of households?

    *Are people using common storage space for private storage? Do we want to provide for that? Could the new houses include [private] space that isn't available in the current buildings?

    *Is it at all feasible to increase the bulk storage proportionally with the expected increase in #housholds (#people is a better measure)? Or do we have to somehow be more frugal with our space?

    *How fast is stuff getting used? Do we really need a 3-month supply of dry pintos? Or are we running out of stuff too quickly?

    *Which things are we storing for a long time; which go quickly?

    *Which things do we have to buy in a particular quantity that last a long time and which we wouldn't necessarily buy more of at a time? (our example is dishwashing soap, which comes in a fairly large box and lasts for months; we'd just buy it a little more often if we were using more)

    *Are there other things we need more?

    David Hungerford, Muir Commons

    We have a commercial grade residential stove which is adequate size and shape for us. BUT we have had many problems with our stove, made by Viking. The oven door wouldn't stay closed tight--kept torquing--so oven wouldn't stay hot. Three repair visits and several twists by us didn't fix it. Finally, now with inside door panel from the company and professional installation, it seems to be working. The enamel on the burner spiders was apparently defective and bubbled and/or flaked off five out of six burners. Also finally replaced by Viking. The top enamel (I think) is defective, cause is very hard to clean and never looks spotless. Finally, the oven thermostat was way off at first and took two stoveperson visits to fix. Get a different brand!

    Joani Blank Doyle St. Cohousing

    I've just been told that our local officials (I think it was the Health Dept.) have changed their minds. Before, they said we were not considered to have a commercial kitchen - now, apparently, they think we have to (i.e. follow those rules). What have other groups done/been told/etc. ?

    I was at Puget Ridge last eve. Their common house _is_ an awe-inspiring structure, and I agree about the kitchen! They have a large six-burner residential stove (jennair), but chose not to go with a commercial one because, as Marci explained, they would then have been required to have an expensive commercial hood for it. Their fridge is a three-door stainless commercial-style unit, looks bigger than three domestic fridges.

    In the kitchen they have a large irregular-shaped round-cornered butcher block island with a thin strip of walnut inlay; it's very nice, and Marci notes it allows them to work facing each other. It's obvious they spent a lot of energy (despite ever-present budget constraints) on the design of the kitchen and the whole common house.

    Cathrine O

    Reply to kitchen questions:

    >1) What materials did you use for counter tops and floors? Would you choose them again?

    Formica for counter tops. Okay except near sinks (already have bad damage near sinks)--easy to clean, be sure to have an ethic against using knives on counters, or using abrasive cleaners. We originally had a 4 inch formica backsplash all around (standard formica counter design) with regular textured drywall above. bad mistake because, for some reason, cooking for a lot of people is messier than cooking at home and the walls behind the counters became gross quickly. Our solution was to sand down the texture, slap on a *smooth* coat of mud, then repaint with oil-based (easy to clean) paint. If we wanted to do it all over, we'd have the backsplash cover the wall up to the upper cabinets.

    >2) What did you do (if anything) about the noise from dishwashing? Our under-counter Hobart isn't really that noisy, but it's on a wall against the dining room (high counter, dishwashers look into dining room while working). But dishwashing/cleanup usually doesn't begin until about 45 minutes after meals are served, and people tend to leave when it starts.

    >5) What do you use for lighting in the kitchen,

    Recessed halogens above bar/dish counter (nice, warm ambiance--if memory serves, they're on dimmers); under-cabinet fluorescents above the prep counters; and overhead fluorescents over the whole room--different people like different kinds and amounts of light, and different uses require different kinds of light. In other words, we're glad we can use different combinations of lighting for different circumstances.

    >and in the dining area?

    Warehouse lamps above the tables hanging from a cathedral ceiling with "warm" fluorescent bulbs, on dimmers. 4 circuits so we can vary the amount of light in different parts of the room

    >8) Do you have a person designated as the Kitchen Manager?

    Not exactly, we have a kitchen committee who split up the functions

    >Who handles broken appliances, etc?

    Maintenance committee/or whoever stumbles across the problem first

    >9) Do you use your common house for other types of activities (outside parties, etc), and how do you handle this?

    Yes, big issue--still working out some details regarding "public" events such as folk music concerts with paying attendees--private parties are frequent, (e.g. soccer team parent meeting; elementary school class "cooking activity"; large family get-together; private dinner party; slumber party; high school play cast party; pass the hat "contra dancing"(sort of like square dancing--with a band and caller); political meetings; yoga classes--but the measurement criterion is that someone in the group MUST be involved in the activity. We didn't allow a fundraiser for a local city council candidate. We handle it by signing up on the calendar in advance, often the organizer will put up a note explaining the event and defining limits (e.g. is it okay to wander through or do they want some privacy).

    David Hungerford, Muir Commons

    In designing kitchens the flow of the dishes is important. People come in, get a plate, food gets on the plate, the plate moves to a table, the plate moves to a holding area, the plate goes into the dishwasher, the plate goes from the  dishwasher to a storage area. Design so that this flow moves efficiently. Think about how to design travel paths so as people came in, their path of travel went goes by dishes and as they leave their dish drop off is handy. If dishwasher is placed strategically between the dish drop off and the pickup it can make a good dish flow. Using a counter level dishwasher means you can slide the loaded racks along the counter without much lifting.

     

    Flow of the dishes example

    Note that the food service area can be used for drying dishes in the racks and that dishes can be picked up right out of the racks at food service time. There is a minimum of lifting loaded dishracks in this example.

    Also do the same for the cooking dishes. Food gets prepared, a pan is  taken from storage, food put into a pan, placed in the oven, taken out  of the oven, placed for service, moved to the sink, washed, dried,  placed into storage. Make this flow efficient and pay especial  attention to the flow of hot things out of the oven. You don't want to  carry hot things very far, nor through a crowd.  Watch for service bottlenecks. If all 25 people come in at once, do  they all have to wait in a single line or does your food service allow  for a double line.

    Rob Sandelin - Puget Sound Cohousing Network, Sharingwood

    Kids room

    In our commonhouse plan Sharingwood also designed the kids space adjacent to the kitchen, although ours is actually down half a floor (4 feet below the level of the main floor). We have currently been doing community dinners for two years now and based on that experience I will comment on your assumptions below:

    >1) The kids (say ages 2-8) will tend to play where the adults are. The adults in the common house before dinner, will generally be in or near the kitchen. If the kids room is far away from the kitchen it won't be used.

    This is very age and kid dependent. My observation is that 2-4 year olds want to be near adults, 5 and up could care less as long as they are not alone. Our experience is that two or more 5 years olds will play happily in a basement as long as there is something fun to do. A single kid wants company and will want to be near adults if there are no other kids around.

    >2) Kids will tend to play where the warm sunlight is. If the kids room is not visually inviting (say, placed on the shady cooler north side), kids won't use this room.

    I have not observed this at all in our 10 kids. They play where ever the "action" is. Sunlight has no measurable affect on their play. As a matter of fact, as a parent I am amazed that while I bask in the fall sunshine, my kids are running in the shadows of the Island.

    >3) Because the kids room is placed within view of the cooks (but separated by glass) parents with toddlers or pre-toddlers will still be able to effectively participate in the cooking.

    This depends on the parents and the toddlers. Our experience shows that kids who make a lot of demands on their parents for attention make cooking miserable and the parents usually work out childcare so they can cook free of distraction. There are times as a cook when you do not want to be distracted by a 2 year old clinging to your leg and frankly, most parents enjoy a break.

     

    >How have other Kids rooms worked (or not worked)?

    Our current kids space is 8 x 10, very small, very little to do. We originally filled it with cast off toys and the adults spent several minutes after dinner coaxing the kids to pick up all the toys. We removed most the toys and the kids do fantasy play now, lining up chairs to make trains, last night they wadded up a bunch of the old drawings and stuffed the "treasure" in various nooks and crannies and played find the treasure. Less is more with kids. I would recommend rotating adult supervision and attention to kids activities occasionally. Stories, art projects are good adult lead activities. Having an adult focus the energy every now and again is a great way for elders to have a chance to spend time with the kids and the kids,(our kids anyway) love stories.

    One of the problems of having a kids space is that it is usually infinitely more attractive than dinner so your kids take two bites, then run off and play, then come back as you (and all the other kids) are leaving and whine for food. Having a locking door so that no one gets to use the playroom until 20 minutes after dinner starts is a way to get kids to sit at the table for long enough to eat something.

    >Is it too small (big)? Ours is 11 x 13 with a corner of stairs/stage

    Go to a lawn and measure off 11X13 and put all your kids into it. Add a paper cutout of a desk or two and a bookcase and arrange it around. How does it feel? Imagine 20 kids in that space?

    >Is it contiguous to outdoor covered/enclosed space? Ours opens onto a small covered deck and then to the only hard, flat space in the development

    Good plan. Having an outdoor spill out is great in the summer, and not bad in the winter either. Kids are loud little things and it is nice to get them out of the house. Of course the 2 and under set will want to have some responsible older kid or adult keeping them from eating slugs and such.

    >What time of day is it mostly used?

    Our kids space is used from about 6 to 7:30, the dinner hour. We discourage kids from using the space unless their parent is in the commons. We hold childcare for general meetings in houses. There was too much distraction having all the kids so close to the meeting and we hire childcare anyway.

    >Is it used for home schooling?, Structured daycare?

    In our state (WA) the regulatory requirements for building daycare space are very cumbersome. If we do home schooling in our new commonhouse, we won't tell the state about it. We have left that option open.

    Rob Sandelin Sharingwood

    General Usage

    Here at Nyland I have experiences very little hanging out in the common house. A few people seem to arrive a bit early for dinners, a few people watch some late night TV a few nights a week and I have spotted people looking through the Sunday paper on occasion.

    Why is this so? Well for one people around here are busy so IMHO they don't know much about the concept of hanging out in the first place. Second our common house living room is not really a separate space from the dining room and I feel adds to the lack of cozyness.

    Zev (Bill) Paiss Nyland CoHousing

    I think our common house is used more than those of some others who have contributed to this thread, and the reason may be that we are physically more compact than many sites. One unit shares a common wall with the CH; my back door is about 30 feet away, and for no one is it more than a 45-second walk.

    We're also looser than some coho communities about allowing children in their play room without direct adult supervision. Same for the teens with their upstairs room; and our sitting room is a comfortable place to be, enough separated from the dining room that you can feel cozy.

    Small committee meetings usually happen there; a contra dance band rehearses every Wednesday and holds a dance once a month; other music happens sometimes; people hold parties and special events pretty regularly; the neighborhood association meets in the CH every other month; and often the next day's cooks are doing prep work at night.

    Nevertheless, the CH is used less than I would have predicted for unstructured hanging out by adults. Pretty rare, except for before and after meals and some weekends. People are busy; they like their private space, too; and an awful lot of us are early-to-bed types, it turns out. Right after we bought our ping pong table, it was out and people were playing a couple nights a week, but the novelty has worn off. A couple times people have announced fairly spontaneous cafe nights or a dance party; turnout was fairly slim; there was a poetry reading last week. It will be interesting to see how all this changes over time.

    David Mandel, Southside Park, Sacramento

    At Muir Commons, we find that there is not nearly as much 'hanging out' at the CH as we had envisioned, especially in the evenings. We've wondered about this, and have come up with a list of possible contributing factors:

    1) demographics--lots of families w/youngsters they don't want to leave alone, or would rather spend family time with.

    2) not enough critical mass of singles/child-free couples to make a regular hang-out scene happen. We actually had a single male move out partially because this scene, which never materialized, was part of his vision.

    3) our common house was rather "cold" and uninviting, sparse furniture, concrete floors etc. We've warmed it up some, with furniture, wall hangings etc. but . . .

    4) nobody has time to hang out anymore (see number 1) Our hanging out tends to happen on weekends, or outside on nice

    spring/summer evenings, so its not like we're anti-social.

    David Hungerford Muir Commons